I’ve traveled all over the world but one of my favorite places is close to home. A few hours in the car is all it takes to get me up the northern California coast to a sparsely populated resort, surrounded by ocean, lagoon, and forest. I’ve been coming here to Big Lagoon, as it is called, for thirty years. I’m here as usual to see in the new year.
I first brought my son Daniel to Big Lagoon as a small child, and his deep love of the area is one of the reasons I’ve held on to my share of a cabin. Now that he’s gone, I irrevocably associate him with this wondrous place.
A few weeks before Daniel’s death in the summer of 2006, I was here with his son, my then seven-year old grandson. On an unusually warm Father’s Day, I stretched out in a sand dune next to the placid lagoon, watching Nathan dig a hole he dubbed “the world-wide web fort.” Further down the beach, a woman I’d later meet was watching her son swim off a fraction of his boundless energy.
Behind us to the west I could hear the kettledrum booming of fierce waves. If you stand exactly in the middle of the barrier beach, one ear is deafened by the ocean’s roar, while the other can hear the whoosh of brown pelicans as they alight clumsily on the lagoon. And this détente has lasted for at least a millennium, as we know from stories passed on by the Yurok Indians, who thought of Big Lagoon as the center of a universe regulated by spirits that inhabit the off shore sea stacks and under-water caves.
Nathan is an openhearted kid with a hard-working imagination. I’d brought him to Big Lagoon knowing that he would enjoy himself in much the same way Daniel enjoyed himself here when he was the same age. Nathan had all he needed – water, sand, rocks, and wood – except for kids his own age. Luckily, seven-year old Lonnie appeared out of nowhere to join my grandson in his construction project.
Nathan-the-knight and his new pal Lonnie-the-dragon, a wiry and agile kid with eyes in the back of his head, quickly turned the peaceful beach into a battleground, defending their kiddie-pool fort with an arsenal of puny driftwood sticks and a beat up tennis ball, magically transformed into ray guns and electric spears. When I offered them peanut butter sandwiches and juice, they quickly negotiated an armistice.
Soon, Lonnie’s mother – a tall muscular woman in her 40s who fits easily into a dancer’s body – came over to collect her son. After two minutes of pleasantries befitting strangers, Stephanie Silvia and I quickly got into more serious stuff about the boys. Recently I’ve become more open to telling my stories to strangers, and hearing theirs.
Stephanie and her husband had recently adopted seven-year old, tri-racial Lonnie after he had spent several years in the hardscrabble world of foster care. She told me she’s doing her best to make sure he doesn’t go through the rest of his childhood flinching, as she did.
I immediately liked Stephanie: the way she wears mismatched earrings and acts so sure of herself. On the surface, we have little in common. I’m a retired professor with a pension, health benefits, a brown-shingle house in Berkeley, and enough savings to buy a share in a second home on the coast.
Stephanie rents a funky mobile home in nearby Trinidad and scrapes by as a teacher’s aide. She’s always looking for full-time work in this economically depressed region, hard hit by clear-cutting, the damning of rivers, and government neglect. In Humboldt, where the once plentiful salmon are dangerously depleted, local fishermen, like Stephanie’s husband Scot, spend months of the year away from home, trawling in Alaska.
I was in Big Lagoon for a vacation with my grandson at my son’s request. A few months earlier, Daniel took me aside for some straight talk about why I needed to pay more attention to his two boys. He had experienced four close calls in his forty-year life. I had rehearsed his death many times, but I’d also come to expect a last minute reprieve.
We shared an unusual intimacy, forged during grim visits to oncology and lung clinics, and hilarious consultations with urologists. We had been best man at each other’s wedding.
“You need to stop worrying about me and spend more time with the boys,” he said, pointedly.
Of course, I couldn’t stop worrying about him, but thereafter my partner Cecilia and I made a special effort to relate to Daniel and Anna’s two sons as more than dutiful grandparents. Thus this trip with Nathan to Big Lagoon.
A few days after I met Stephanie, we got together for coffee in the local Beachcomber Café, and discovered some surprising threads of common history. We are both secular Jews, both transplants to the west coast: she came from New York in the late 1970s in search of deadheads; I arrived from England more than a decade earlier in search of the beats. We discovered that we both aspire to wake up and write early in the day.
Before we parted, I asked Stephanie to send me her poetry. I told her that I’d be glad to give her feedback on her work. A few days later she filled up my email box with her poems.
But it was a long time before I had the energy to seriously read anything. In the middle of the summer of 2006, Daniel died.
Back home in Berkeley, I retreated into a small world. It took a blind-sided jolt – a young man running a red light and totaling my car – to help get me going again. Glad to be alive, unscratched no less, I began to resume my routines. Returning eventually to Stephanie’s poetry, I found myself drawn to her more sorrowful pieces, spiked with a gritty toughness I recall in myself before I lost my good friend, my son.
A piece she calls “Today” snagged my moody attention:
waking up and writing first thing
this is a purpose
this is not getting out of bed
taking care of the dog
(I love the dog)
doing an errand
after having green tea because of giving up coffee because
green tea is supposed to promote weight loss
and planning on cleaning the house
and going back to bed
to lie in an awful stupor
(like the bed sweats with no sweat)
between asleep and wakefulness
somehow summoning a force field
to make it to the kitchen to grind strong black coffee while
scouring the cupboard for good/bad things to eat
before getting on with the day
much better yet with a hint of lingering daze
none of that today
today
toasting a bagel at 8 am
(8am!)
walking with a mug ( a coffee mug) in my hand
to the cabin next door
like I have something important to do
like I am working
like I am whole and awake
and not longing to be hit over the head
to end my yearning misery
Like Stephanie, I know what it’s like to plunge into creative work in the hope of shaking off the numbness. I’ve been writing my everyday stories for more than twenty-five years, going back to Daniel’s first near-death experience, when a surgeon removed a tumor the size of a small orange from his brain. He made it through that and another brain surgery, a stroke, and lung failure.
“I’m baaaaaaaack,” he’d exult after each recovery, and rush to fill up his abbreviated life until it spilled over the edges.
But this time, there would be no deus ex machina. And he knew it. “When my well-used body gives up,” he told me about a month before his death, “I’d like a Viking funeral.”
We honored his request some hundred yards north of the place where I had stretched out on the beach a few weeks earlier, watching Nathan and Lonnie fight off their imaginary enemies. With his family gathered under the stars, we placed his ashes in a cedar box on top of a driftwood pyre and sent him ablaze into the distant heart of Big Lagoon.